INFRAMUNDO

HAUTE COUTURE 2023 COLLECTION BY ANA ESTRADA

This Haute Couture Collection is inspired in the Greek hell - the Underworld, house of the dead. This world, one of the three realms that makes up the Cosmos, is ruled by Hades - God of the Underworld, brother of Zeus and Poseidon. The looks of the collection are all inspired in key elements and characters of the Underworld, an ode to the darkest and most lugubrious place on Earth

The Underworld was divided in three different regions: Tartarus, the Asphodel Meadows and Elysium. Tartarus was the area where punishment and imprisonment was undertaken; the Asphodel Meadows was for the ordinary souls and the Elysium, home of the heroic, and the region of the Underworld most closely associated with paradise.

The moodboard tries to portray the mood of the collection and the visual inspiration: desired colors, fabrics, textures and sensations

Location

The location for the fashion show is Las Cuevas del Drach in Mallorca (Spain). I chose this location because I wanted it to be the closest representation of the Underworld. I love the idea of having the guests "descend" to the bottom of Earth and be taken around the cave in boats powered by ferrymen, resembling Charon.

Decoration and Lighting

The idea is to portray a dark, lugubrious and tenebrous place with fog all around the cave. In terms of lighting, I want the cave to be mostly dark, with light only on the runways so the looks can be appreciated. The boats will have a small light as well to slightly illuminate the way.

Invitation

In order to reach the Underworld, the dead had to cross the Acheron river. To do so, they had to pay Charon, the ferryman, a couple of Obols (ancient greek coins) at their arrival. The only way to make sure the dead would be able to make the payment was to bury them with a coin on their eyes or even in their mouths.

If the dead had no coins, their souls had to wander the earth side of the river for hundreds or even thousands of years before they were permitted to cross.

This look is inspired in Hades, God of the Underworld. Hades was the son of Cronus and Rhea (Titans), and one of the 12 great gods of the Olympus. As legend has it, Hades was devoured at birth by his father, Cronus, in order to prevent the prophecy of his sons would overrule him. Later, Hades was rescued by his brother Zeus. 

Zeus, Hades and Poseidon fought against their father and after winning the battle, became the owners of the World. Zeus became God of the Sky, Poseidon God of the Sea and Hades, God of the Underworld.

This look is inspired in Persephone, daughter of Zeus and Demeter. As legend tells, Hades one day kidnapped her and took her to the Underworld. Her mother, Demeter, desperately went look for her; as she couldn't find her, she decided to punish everyone and created a permanent winter.

Zeus, worried about the situation, made a pact with Hades to only spend four months a year with her, the rest of the time Persephone would spend it with her mother. This is how winter was created

This look is inspired in Charon, the ferryman of the Underworld

Charon was in charge of transporting the dead from one side to the other of the Acheron river

The ferryman often appears represented with a hooded cape

This final look is inspired in the Cypress, the tree that represents the connection between heaven (Olympus), where the Gods and Goddesses reside, and hell (Underworld), where the dead are confined

The Underworld was full of skeletons and skulls. I wanted to mix this concept with the Lernaean Hydra myth, a serpentine water monster that lived in the Lerna lake and was in charge of protecting one of the entrances to the Underworld. It had poisonous breath and blood so virulent that even its scent was deadly

The Hydra possessed many heads, being able to regenerate them when cut: for every head chopped off, the Hydra would regrow two heads

Anima is the Greek name used for "soul". As it has been portrayed many times, the Acheron river wasn't formed by regular water, but by the lost souls that reside there

The black tulle that covers the dress in full aims to represent the main characteristics of the soul; its transparency, lightness and fluidity

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